Michigan State University Extension
Tourism Educational Materials - 33400021
06/06/02
Low Cost Improvements for Home, Business, or Resort Furnishings
Source: Minnesota
ID: HE-FO-3366
Format: Full Text, Archive
Author: Alexander, Harold
Year: 1988
Our homes and their furnishing's are without doubt some of
our most valued and valuable possessions. Most of us
continually try to create a more personally satisfying home
- one that looks good, is comfortable and pleasant,
functions well for our family and ourselves, and indicates
to others our interests, activities, and way of life.
Today, with the growing interest in bed and breakfast
operations, farm vacation homes, resorts, and other family-
based businesses, many of us have also become more aware of
the appearance of our offices and guest rooms and the
furnishing's in them. For example, if you use your own home
for a family-based business or if you own a resort, it may
well be that the ambiance - how interesting, unique,
comfortable, and personal it and its furnishings are - will
make the difference between moderate and outstanding
success.
Certainly, the appealing, ambiance of a bed and breakfast
or resort increases the likelihood of repeat guests and
their recommendations to their friends. And a pleasant
office or business indicates to clients the professionalism
and success of the business. So, although you may be
generally satisfied with the way the furnishings in your
home or family-based business look and function, the idea
that guests will be paying to stay there or business
clients will be coming in may make you feel that your
furniture needs some perking up.
The question that immediately comes to mind is, how can I
do it without spending a lot of money? Well, look at the
furniture you now have. Regardless of its condition, the
situation is seldom so hopeless that something cannot be
done to increase its desirability and appearance.
First and foremost, your home or resort must be clean - it
must look and smell clean. Furniture and hard-surfaced
floors must shine, draperies and other textile furnishings
must be crisp, and each room must smell fresh. Give
everything a thorough cleaning, not just a quick wipe with
the dustcloth or mop. Air the rooms out; nothing, smells
better than clean, fresh air.
Second, be creative, original, and unique. Give your home
or resort that personal, easily remembered appearance that
will appeal to your guests. It is not always money that
makes the difference. More important than what you have is
what you do with what you have. Perhaps you have furniture
that would be more appropriate and functional arranged in
a different way, or even used in a different room. For
example, that small table that just sits in the upstairs
hall might become a welcome desk in a guest room, or, with
a little cleaning up and a seat cushion, that old rocking
chair up in the attic might be just the extra chair you
need.
Furnishing's need not always be used or located as
originally intended, but you always should consider the
functional correctness of a new use. A chest of drawers,
for example, can often serve well as a small sideboard in
a dining, area or as a storage piece in an office,
bathroom, or hallway.
More often than not, you may still wish your furniture
looked better. The tips that follow include some
simple, inexpensive facelift improvements that can do
wonders for tired looking furniture.
(Note: Some of these tips are inappropriate for valuable
furniture. Rather, they are intended for pieces that have
little or no intrinsic worth other than that they will
perform a necessary function such as supporting a body or
holdings some objects. Know what you own before you do
anything.
General Tips
First, determine what the piece is. Is it a valuable
antique? If you have any doubts, consult experts - more
than one. Do not risk undervaluing a piece because it has
always been in the family or was just up in the attic. Know
what it is and how much you could sell it for, even if you
never intend to sell it. Knowing the value of a piece helps
in determining what you can or should do to it. If a piece
is valuable in any way, never do anything to it that you
cannot undo later.
Using, secondhand or used furniture is an excellent and
often inexpensive way to furnish a home or business. Such
furniture may consist of family' pieces, what you already
have, and pieces recently purchased. Where the furniture
came from is not as important as its quality, style, and
function. Look carefully at what you already have and what
is readily available to you. Can you use it someplace?
Never remove ornament in an attempt to modernize or update
a piece of furniture. If you want simpler furniture, sell
the ornate stuff and buy what you like. Much too often good
furniture is mutilated with saws and chisels so that it
becomes worthless from both an economic and a design
standpoint. Incidentally, office furniture does not always
have to be simple and contemporary/modern. More and more
office designers are including antiques in business
interiors.
Finishing Touches
Remember, never refinish any wood surface unless it is
absolutely necessary! Original surfaces increase the value
of all older furniture and especially true antiques.
Stripping that original surface off might also strip you of
potential funds if you were to sell the piece later
The surface might only be caked with dirt, wax, or oil.
Clean it up. Always test on a hidden area; if one
technique or cleaning substance doesn't work, try another.
Technique #1. Clean wood surfaces with a mild detergent
solution using more rubbing than water. Test to see whether
the water makes the surface white or loosens the veneer
glue if the piece is veneered. If it does, STOP! If it
does not, clean a section at a time and wipe it dry with a
clean, soft cloth. Wood should not be soaked or the water
will raise the grain, soften the glue, and affect the
finish. If done properly, however, this is a quick and
inexpensive way to remove dirt. If the shine if lost, wax
the piece when it is thoroughly dry.
Technique #2. Try rubbing the surface with very fine steel
wool soaked in a solution of half paint thinner (not
remover) and half alcohol, or just thinner or just alcohol.
Again, test first on a small hidden area. Alcohol will
remove shellac, and thinner may soften old varnish, so be
careful. If done properly, this softening of the varnish
may help flatten out rough surfaces.
When the finish is clean, give it a good rubbing with lemon
oil, a good grade of furniture polish, or wax. Paste wax
lasts longer than liquid and will not raise the grain as
much. Again, use more rubbing than wax or polish. Do not
use wax and oil on the same surface; using both may result
in a surface that will not dry and will attract dust, or it
will not get hard enough to polish. Guard against excessive
buildup of either wax or oil. After you have achieved a
rich surface, you need reapply wax or oil only three or
four times a year. Just light dustings and an occasional
heavier buffing should maintain the shine.
If one of the new spray polishes has been used on a piece
of furniture that was heavily waxed, the wax may be
softened and a disastrous, sticky condition may result. In
such a case, all the wax has to be removed and the surface
has to be built up again. This is one good reason for
always testing new products in hidden areas.
Working with Paint
People have been painting furniture for a lot longer than
most of us realize, so you cannot assume that a painted
piece originally had a natural finish. Today, a mix of
painted and naturally finished furniture is quite
acceptable.
If your piece of furniture has its original painted finish,
is still tight, and is worn or chipped in only a few
places, perhaps some careful retouching with matching paint
followed by a good waxing will be all that it needs. The
trend today, however, is to allow the worn surfaces to
remain unretouched; just wash the surface well.
Applying a coat of paint is a marvelous way to rejuvenate
furniture, but make sure you know the value of a piece of
furniture before you start paintings. Never paint valuable
antiques that have original natural or painted surfaces
that are in good condition. If a piece is not that valuable
and is sturdy, then by all means paint it. Just make sure
the surface is tight, is free from wax, dirt, and oils, and
has enough tooth to hold the paint (sand lightly to remove
the shine). Painting a variety of mismatched furniture the
same color will tie them all together.
If only the top of a varnished or painted table, desk, or
dresser is scarred or worn, repaint only the top, or try
stenciling or painting a border, placemats, or a center
decoration to cover the blemishes. Painted decoration,
which can be quite handsome, has been used on furniture for
centuries.
Try antiquing. Apply a darker paint or glaze (a
transparent, varnish-like liquid) and than wipe it off
before it dries, leaving it on lower surfaces and in the
cracks and crevices. Try two colors for an even richer
surface.
If the painted surface is good but you don't like the
color, try painting the piece with a color you like and
then wipe or blot it off a little before it is completely
dry. The result will be richer than just solid paint. One
complementary color over another (red over green, for
example) or dark over light are especially nice
combinations.
If you want to change the look of a piece and the painted
surface is relatively good, sand it well to remove any
shine. Then marbleize, grain, or otherwise add pattern to
the surface. Paint wet on dry, wet on wet, experiment -
there is no limit to what you can do. You can always wipe
it off. Roll a twisted newspaper over a freshly painted
surface to reveal undercolor. Apply the paint with a
sponge, wadded-up cloth, feathers, or corncobs. Rub and
blot. Spatter, dribble, or slap it on. Paint the surface
and then comb through it with a comb or other device (an
old but excellent way to grain a surface). Paint the
surface, then press on a textured material (burlap, lace,
onion sack, etc.) and lift it carefully to reveal the color
underneath. Dry brush color on the top surfaces. Stencil
designs, either single or repeating. When you have achieved
the effect you want protect the finished surface with
urethane varnish.
If the paint is really bad but the piece is sturdy and
solid and you can use it, try sanding, and scraping as much
of the paint off the surface as you can to reveal what is
underneath. Then wax the piece with paste wax or even shoe
polish. This finish, which is admired by those who like
old, natural textures, fits in beautifully with country
interiors.
If the piece is really blemished and is of little economic
value but could be a functional asset, try beating it up
even more. Slam it with chains, stick it in places with an
ice pick for "worm holes", get a wood rasp and rub off the
corners and other places where it would naturally get worn.
Be ruthless and work off your frustrations. Don't be timid.
When the surfaces are really distressed, carefully go over
the entire surface with fairly rough sandpaper to scratch
it even further and remove any shine. Straight sanding with
the direction of the wood grain is best; don't rub in
circles. Then apply either a dark glaze or a stain, allow
it to set up a bit, and then wipe it off. Remove more in
the centers of panels and edges; leave it built up in the
lower parts. The color will soak into the bare wood,
staining only unfinished surfaces. More than one glaze will
give an even richer surface. Adding a spattering of fine
specks of glaze or paint will also look handsome. When the
piece is completely dry, finish it with two or three coats
of urethane varnish, sanding with very fine sandpaper
between coats, and taking care to remove all the dust
before adding the new coat of finish. Top off with a coat
of paste wax. This is essentially the method new furniture
manufacturers use to distress their period style furniture.
Check the furniture stores for ideas.
Scratches and Dents
Small nicks or scratches often go unnoticed, but if
unwanted nicks or scratches do show on an otherwise good
piece of furniture, try rubbing a little shoe polish of a
similar color on the bare wood. The shoe polish will soak
into the wood and polish the finished surface. The blemish
should disappear.
Small scratches on light-toned woods can often be hidden if
they are rubbed with the meat of an oily nut (walnut,
butternut, Brazil nut) or rubbed with paste wax.
Iodine is an old stand by for scratches on dark surfaces.
New iodine, full strength, has been used for years to hide
blemishes on mahogany pieces. Old iodine is better for
walnut surfaces.
Iodine cut with water works well for scratches on maple.
Wipe it off immediately; don't allow the iodine to remain
on the good surface or a larger blemish may result.
Repairs can also be made with matching, wax crayons.
Although the ordinary wax crayons used by children will
work, the colors usually are too bright. Special crayons
are available in paint departments and where paneling is
sold.
If the wood fibers are not broken, small dents often can be
minimized if you cover the area with a damp cloth and then
place a warm - not hot -iron over it for a few moments.
Repeat if necessary. The moisture will penetrate the finish
and cause the wood fibers to swell. Later, you can treat
the surface to remove and white marks if the finish turns
white or gray because of the water.
Larger dents may have to be filled with a shellac stick of
the same color as the wood.
To repair cigarette burns and other small burned areas,
sand until all the charred wood has been removed and then
refinish the area to match the surrounding surface.
Glue
If you must repair a piece of furniture, use soluble glue.
Use only glue or glue and dowels to hold the parts
together; screws or nails should seldom be used on wood
furniture.
If you have to remove a glued part to repair it, put
vinegar in a small oil can and apply it to the glued joint.
Old glue often will soften with this treatment.
If a chair or table has a loose or wobbly leg and the leg
can be removed, wrap a small strip of nylon hose or some
thread around the end of the leg, apply glue, and allow it
to dry. Apply glue again and reinsert the leg.
If a chair, desk, or table has a slight case of the
"wobblies" because one leg is a little short, put a small
amount of Plastic wood (a commercial product) or sawdust
mixed with glue on a scrap of waxed paper, set the short
leg on it, and press down firmly until the table is sturdy.
Allow it to dry without removing and trim it with a sharp
knife and sandpaper. Touch up the leg with varnish or
paint.
If dresser or desk drawers will not slide easily but are
otherwise sound, rub soap or candle wax on the runners and
bottoms of the drawers where they touch, reinsert them, and
slide them back and forth a few times. Repeat this
treatment occasionally.
If the veneer on a piece is blistered, loose, or completely
off, but you still have the piece, cover the veneer with a
damp cloth until it becomes flexible, insert white glue
underneath, wipe off the excess, place waxed paper over the
repaired area, and weight it or clamp it down until dry.
Allow it to set for at least 24 hours. Use a damp cloth to
wipe off any excess glue forced out with the clamping.
Finally, wax the area.
Fabrics
Covering plain or nondescript wood furniture with wallpaper
or fabric is a marvelous way to enhance it. You can cover
the entire surface or just sections. New, unpainted
furniture is ideal for this treatment. The surface should
be smooth and sealed. If the piece was originally painted
or varnished, the surface should be tight; sand it lightly
to remove any shine. Of course, no wax, dirt, or grease
should be left on the surface. Cover each section with
wallpaper or fabric using wheatpaste or another recommended
adhesive. Allow it to dry thoroughly, and then make any
minor trimming repairs. Finally, protect the surface with
urethane varnish.
Upholstered surfaces are sometimes only dirty. Cleaning can
do wonders, whether it's done by professional upholstery
cleaners or at home using techniques and materials
recommended by a textile and clothing specialist.
If the upholstery fabric is frayed and noticeably worn in
a few places but otherwise is in good condition, try an
applique of contrasting design. The applique should be
large enough or placed in such a way that it will look like
part of the original design. This technique works well with
a plain original fabric but can be effective even with a
pattern. Try adding a little extra padding under the
applique for a richer effect, perhaps even quilting the
applique before you apply it. It will be easier if you use
a curved needle when hand sewing an applique on a chair or
couch.
Using braid, tape, or strips of cloth to cover worn areas
can add a nice touch. Be a little bold so it all looks
intentional and not just mended. In fact, in every instance
you should be bold enough to make whatever you do look like
it is part of the original idea, not a make-do.
Where the cat has pulled the upholstery fabric on the
corners of a chair or couch and you have remnants of the
fabric or can get enough from unseen parts of the piece (on
the back or under the cushions), carefully match the piece
and use a curved needle to sew on a second layer. If the
pattern is matched perfectly and the patch is well pressed,
the repair will not be noticeable. (Get the cat a
scratching post and clip its nails to save on future
repairs.)
A trend seen in popular magazines that requires no sewing
and little skill is to simply drape furniture rather than
repair it. Just drape furniture - tables, chairs, couches
- with rectangular pieces of cloth. These flat pieces are
allowed to hang freely or are tucked in and tied at the
corners for a better fit. They are not cut and fitted like
traditional slipcovers. The fabric is smoothed over the
surfaces, folded and tucked where needed, and then gathered
beneath where there is excess fabric and it can be tied
with cords and ribbons. Sometimes holes are cut in the
fabric in strategic places, but even these are not always
necessary. Sheets work well for these covers. Draping
provides an easy way to change your furniture with the
seasons. The covers can match or contrast with surrounding
colors and textures.
To enhance and upgrade the inexpensive, stretchable
slipcovers found in most mail-order catalogs, try adding
contrasting tape or braid trim, or flounces, applique, or
some other ornament.
Frequently a good dye job to strengthen or brighten color
can improve both old and new slipcovers. You must, of
course, check the fiber content to be sure it can be dyed
safely. Faded patterned slipcovers can often be dyed not to
completely cover the pattern, but to merely give new life
to the color.
If you have upholstered furniture that is in good condition
but still needs something to perk it up, add a cluster of
bright, decorative pillows. With little effort, you can
achieve a lot of effect.
Pillows can be made from remnants, the good sections of
worn quilts, new patchwork, old oriental carpet scraps, or
almost any decorative fabric. The tops can be woven,
knitted, pieced, appliqued, embroidered, or crocheted. Old
doilies, antimacassars, and sections of old lace
tablecloths and curtains can be quite handsome used over
plain fabric as a pillow top. For stuffing, use old
pillows, new foam scraps, leftover foam carpet padding torn
to bits, or anything that will work.
Decoupage
Decoupage is an age-old way to decorate furniture. Kits are
now available, but they can be expensive and limiting.
Decoupage consists simply of carefully cutting bits and
pieces of decorative prints (pictures or parts of pictures
-flowers, people, architectural details, animals, picture
frames, etc.) from magazines and other sources (newspapers
may turn brown with age, but can still be used. These
cutouts are then glued in arrangements on a slightly
roughened surface, either painted or varnished. Once dry,
the surface is covered with layers of urethane varnish
until it is level (the thickness of the paper will not be
visible). If you are not adept at rosemaling or freehand
painting, this is a wonderful way to add decorations to
furniture. Decoupage was first done two or three centuries
ago to imitate handpainted designs.
How to Handle Handles
Replacing the handles on desks, chests, and cabinets has
long bean a way to update a piece. But why replace them?
Instead change the ones you have. First try cleaning them
up. You might be surprised how handsome the handles really
are.
Carefully remove the handles and try to determine whether
they are solid or plated. Many old handles are solid bass.
To clean them, soak them in a solution of ammonia and
water, and then rub them with very fine steel wool that's
been dipped in the solution. When clean, rinse them well in
clean water. Then dry them and buff them with a dry soft
cloth. Place them an a surface that has been protected and
spray them with a thin coat of transparent lacquer. Respray
in 10 minutes. Don't try to get all the tarnish out of the
low spots. The handles will blend better with the furniture
and they will sparkle more with the contrast of tarnished
and shiny surfaces.
You can use this same treatment for brass-plated handles,
but rub very carefully so you do not remove the plating.
Finish them the same way. If the handles are iron or some
other gray metal, clean them as described above and polish
them. The finish will look like old pewter and can be as
handsome as brass.
If the handles need just a touch more of shiny brightness,
try rubbing the top surfaces with one of the wax and buff
commercial products. These are soft wax compounds filled
with gold-, silver- or copper-colored particles. Although
the compound will eventually rub off, it can be reapplied
easily.
If the handles are not the original but are still
serviceable, get a little pizzazz out of them by dipping
them in or painting them with a bright color. Knobs and
wooden handles are especially attractive this way.
If one or more of the handles are missing and you can't
find a match, add similar ones on the lower, less-used and
less-visible places. This is perfectly acceptable until you
find identical replacements. Never remove old handles and
discard them! If you think you just must have all the
handles alike, get some inexpensive but stylistically
compatible ones to use temporarily until you find the
correct replacements. Fasten the old handles to the back or
inside someplace for safe storage. Don't just save them
someplace, fasten them on the piece.
Decorative handles can be made from almost any type of
knob, block, ring, or spool. Try using children's blocks in
a child's room. Spools that are usually discarded after the
thread is gone also make good handles. The old wooden ones
are better than the newer plastic ones, but both will work.
Large wooden beads and even some pipe fittings will work,
as will parts of automobiles, lengths of chain, or even a
single link if it is large enough. Large screw eyes are
also good. U bolts make handsome moderns handles. Handles
made from different materials can be used as is, painted,
or even covered with heat shrink electrical insulation
materials.
Harold H. Alexander is associate professor and extension
specialist, Department of Design, Housing and Apparel.
Mention of commercial names does not imply endorsement, nor
does failure to mention a name imply criticism by the
Minnesota Extension Service.
Issued in furtherance of cooperative extension work in
agriculture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30,
1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of
Agriculture. Patrick J. Borich, Dean and Director of
Minnesota Extension Service, University of Minnesota, St.
Paul, Minnesota 55108. The University of Minnesota,
including the Minnesota Extension Service, is committed to
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