Michigan State University Extension
Ornamental Plants plus Version 2.0 - 00001799
01/01/98

Organic Mulches


Because organic mulches are derived from plant material,    
they will decompose and affect both the soil and the        
plants in several ways.                                     

Physical Effects                                            

If mixed in the upper soil layer, the mulch dilutes the     
soil and usually increases root growth.  When a mulch       
such as sphagnum peat moss, bark or aged sawdust is used,   
it affects the soil almost immediately.  On clay soils,     
bark or aged sawdust increases aeration.  Sphagnum peat     
moss, increases the water-holding capacity is of sandy      
soil.                                                       

If the mulch is not well decomposed, it will promote        
granulation, or clinging together, of the soil particles.   
During decomposition of the organic material, soil micro-   
organisms secrete a sticky material that glues soil         
particles together to form granules.  This is especially    
true of heavy soil types.  Materials that decompose         
slowly, such as sphagnum peat moss, have little effect on   
granulation.  Straw, fresh leaves or aged manure, which     
decompose rather rapidly, do promote granulation.           

Mulches improve and stabilize soil structure, the           
arrangement of the soil particles.  Because of the mulch    
layer, the soil structure is not disturbed by pelting rain  
or coarse streams or drops of water from irrigation         
devices.  Some gardeners do not realize that cultivating    
when the soil is wet destroys good soil structure.  Using   
mulches eliminates the danger of cultivation at the wrong   
time because very little, if any, cultivation is            
necessary.  Another way to harm the soil structure is to    
walk on the soil when it is wet.  A mulch on the soil       
serves as a cushion and reduces soil compaction.            

Chemical Effects                                            

The pH, the degree of acidity or alkalinity of the soil,    
may be slightly affected.  Acid sphagnum peat moss  will    
gradually lower the pH--make the soil more acid--while      
most other organic materials will raise the pH              
slightly--make the soil reaction more alkaline.  Oak        
leaves may be acid when reasonably fresh, but as they       
finally decompose, the net result is a slightly alkaline    
reaction.  Continuous use of oak leaves, however, will      
keep the soil acid.                                         

Small amounts of plant nutrients become available during    
the decomposition of the mulch because it, too, was  once   
plant material containing these essential elements.  The    
amount of fertilizer added is usually very small,           
however, and may not have much effect on the nutrients      
available in the soil.  As an example, manure has iron in   
it but not enough to correct iron deficiency in an azalea   
or a pin oak.  Reasonably fresh animal manure could supply  
nitrogen but the ammonia in it could damage the foliage     
and/or roots.  Dried animal manures that are packaged for   
sale are relatively high in nitrogen.  If used at rates     
higher than those recommended on the container these        
products can cause problems from too much nitrogen.         
Broadcasting gypsum or superphosphate will reduce the       
problem from ammonia fumes.                                 

Nitrogen starvation or deficiency may become apparent in    
plants mulched with certain materials.  If organic mulches  
such as crushed corncobs, sawdust, wood chips or straw are  
used, micro-organisms decomposing the organic mulch remove  
appreciable amounts of nitrogen from the soil.  The         
removal of this nitrogen, which is used by the              
micro-organisms, reduces the nitrogen reserve in the root   
zone of the growing plant.  If additional amounts of        
nitrogen fertilizers are not applied regularly, nitrogen    
starvation occurs in the mulched plants, which become       
yellowish-green and grow slowly.                            

Biological Effects                                          
Organic mulches serve as food for many micro-organisms      
that maintain and promote soil granulation.  The mulch      
also helps keep the temperature fairly constant so that     
activity of the micro-organisms can occur at a uniform      
rate.                                                       

Sometimes undesirable organisms--disease-causing fungi,     
bacteria and nematodes--may be added to the soil  when      
mulches are applied.  Molds often develop on cocoa bean or  
buckwheat hulls when these materials are kept too moist or  
are used in shady spots.  Stirring them occasionally so     
the surface of the mulch will dry eliminates the mold.      
Insects and rodents may overwinter in some organic mulch.   
Poison baits can be used to eliminate rodents, which may    
damage plants.                                              

Weed seeds may be introduced into the garden with hay or    
straw or strawy manure.  If you use various kinds of hulls  
or corncobs, be sure they are free of the grain or  seed.   
Grain mixed in with crushed corncobs can attract  rodents.  
To control weeds, mulch needs to be sufficiently deep, or   
weeds from the soil below will grow through it.             

Organic Mulch Materials                                     

Grass Clippings                                             

Grass clippings are readily available when the lawn is      
actively growing.  Using grass clippings has several        
disadvantages, however.  Weeds from the lawn can be         
introduced into the mulched bed.  If the clippings are      
applied too deeply and packed too tightly they will         
release heat and a foul odor as they decay.  Clippings      
from lawns that have been treated with weedkillers can      
cause herbicide injury in tender plants.                    

Leafmold                                                    

Leafmold can be made by composting leaves in the fall.      
The material should be partially decomposed by the          
following spring.  It is a good mulch but difficult to      
apply evenly and may not be particularly neat looking.      
Leafmold collected from wooded areas may contain            
nematodes.                                                  

Leaves                                                      

Leaves, probably the most inexpensive material available,   
are used extensively in areas with many trees.  Avoid       
leaves collected from streets that have been sprayed        
with oil or treated with calcium chloride--both oil and     
calcium chloride are toxic to plants.  Leaves may be        
difficult to keep in place in windy locations.  Very dry    
leaves can be a fire hazard, and packed, wet leaves         
interfere with air and water movement into the soil.        
Leaves should be mixed with some other light material,      
such as straw, to prevent their becoming a compacted,       
soggy mass.                                                 

Peat                                                        

Peat is often called "peat moss" but this is a misnomer.    
Moss peat comes from mosses, while other types of peat      
originate from cattails, reeds, sedges and other similar    
water plants.  Sphagnum peat moss is acid and useful for    
mulching and amending the soil around azaleas,              
rhododendrons and other plants that grow best in acid       
soil.  For other plants, apply limestone at 3 to 5 pounds   
per 100 square feet on top of a 2-inch Sphagnum peat mulch  
counteract the acidity.  Sphagnum peat is very resistant    
to decomposition and has many fibers into which roots       
often grow profusely.  Hypnum peat is usually neutral or    
slightly alkaline, breaks down more rapidly and may have    
few fibers.                                                 

Most types of peat are brown and serve as a neutral         
background in the landscape.  If the surface of a peat      
mulch becomes very dry, it will shed water and require      
stirring.  Carelessly tossed cigarettes can ignite peat,    
but it smolders rather than flames.  Fine peat will often   
be blown away in windy weather, but chunky peat will hold.  
Self-seeding of some plants may occur in peat.              

Pine Boughs or Needles                                      

These are usually recommended for winter protection of      
newly set or somewhat tender ornamental plants but can      
serve as a mulch as well.  Any needle-type evergreen is a   
satisfactory source.                                        

Sawdust                                                     

Sawdust is very commonly used in areas where it is readily  
available.  Nitrogen deficiency is almost certain if        
fertilizer is not applied regularly.  The alleged toxicity  
of sawdust is usually nitrogen deficiency in the soil from  
the action of micro-organisms decomposing the material.     
Sawdust from walnut logs can stunt plants because of toxic  
materials in it.                                            

Bark--Shredded, Chunked or Chipped                          

Bark has become popular in recent years.  It makes an       
excellent mulch and is very attractive in landscape         
plantings.  Shredded, chunked or chipped bark lasts as      
long or somewhat longer than peat moss and adds organic     
matter to the soil.  Bark may also be used for walks or     
paths in the garden area.  To prevent nitrogen deficiency   
in plants mulched with bark, apply nitrogen fertilizer.     

Straw                                                       

Straw is used for winter protection and as a summer mulch.  
It is highly flammable, so do not use it where cigarettes   
or matches could be carelessly flipped into the material.   
Additional nitrogen must be applied to prevent starvation   
of the mulched plants.  Weed seeds may be introduced with   
this mulch.  Unless the straw is chopped into short         
lengths, it will be difficult to apply between plants       
growing close together.                                     

Wood Chips And Shavings                                     

Wood chips and shavings have become available in large      
quantities from utility companies.  These materials vary    
in coarseness.  They are sometimes rather fine or may be    
largely broken twigs or branches.  Wood chips decompose     
slowly and may cause nitrogen deficiency if additional      
fertilizer is not applied.  They make a very                
rustic-looking, satisfactory mulch.  Wood chips should not  
be used in foundation plantings next to the house where     
termites are or could be a problem.                         


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