Michigan State University Extension
Ornamental Plants plus Version 3.0 - 00001558
11/12/99

Lawn Site Preparation



Whether seeding or sodding, the site must be properly
prepared.

Use a herbicide such as Round-Up or Kleen-Up to kill
existing vegetation. This is especially necessary if
problem weeds such as quackgrass, tall fescue or bentgrass
are present. Rototilling such weeds into the soil just
spreads them around and will not kill them. The same
procedure is needed to kill off an existing lawn prior to
starting a new lawn.

Remove any debris that may be left from construction.
Debris buried just below the soil surface can result in
localized dry spots that will be a problem once the lawn
is established.

Establish the final grade, making sure there are no low
areas where water can collect. Where the soil is packed
down, cultivate as deeply as possible.

Many times topsoil is spread over the existing soil.
To be a help, at least 6 inches of topsoil are needed. A
1 or 2 inch layer will probably result in poor water
movement and a very shallow-rooted lawn. Either put on at
least 6 inches of topsoil or don't add any. If topsoil is
added, mix some of it into the top 3 inches of existing
soil. This will promote water movement from the added
soil into the existing soil.

Prior to planting, fertilizer and lime should be worked
into the soil as recommended by a soil test. Do not add
lime unless soil test results indicate a need. If the
soil is not tested, use 15 to 20 pounds of 12-12-12 or
16-16-16 per 1000 square feet prior to seeding. When
sodding, use 10 pounds of 5-20-20 or similar fertilizer
per 1000 square feet. Work the fertilizer into the top 3
inches of the soil.

Rake the soil to level the seed bed and establish the
final grade. The soil should be 1 inch below driveways
and sidewalks.

It is now time to plant.


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