Controlling Moles

 


General Description

Identification - There are two types of moles, the eastern mole and the starnosed mole. The eastern mole has a naked red nose and a short tail. The starnosed mole however, has a large red nose with several finger-like projections and a long tail. In color, it ranges from black to brownish and grayish with silver highlights. The mole also has "paddle-like " forefeet and prominent toenails which enable the mole to literally swim through the soil.

Habitat - The mole makes burrows in high, dry spots, but hunts preferably in soil that is shaded, cool, moist, and populated by worms and grubs. This accounts for their attraction to lawns and parks. In neglected orchards and natural woodlands, moles work undisturbed. In urbanized areas, the mole commonly makes its headquarters under portions of buildings and sidewalks.

Diet - The diet of moles consists mainly of the insects, grubs, and worms it finds in the soil. Moles have been blamed for eating roots and tubers, but rodents are usually to blame.

Reproduction - The gestation period of moles is approximately 42 days, in which three to five young are born, mainly in March and early April.


Damage Identification

The mole's burrowing habits disfigures lawns and parks, destroys flower beds, tears up the roots of grasses, and creates havoc in small gardens. with ridges that are about two inches high. They also make mounds that are low, rounded and often have bits of turf on them. The starnosed can also be identified by its large mounds that are typically six inches high and 12 inches wide. This occurs because the starnose does not burrow close to the soil surface.

Damage Prevention Methods


Habitat Modification - Packing the soil with a roller or reducing soil moisture may tend to reduce the desirability of the habitat to moles.

Repellents - Mole-Med is an effective liquidrepellent containing castor oil that is diluted with water and applied as a spray. Thiram is a repellent used for protecting bulbs from mole damage. Also, mothballs or moth flakes have been used as a mole repellent.

Homemade Repellent - ¼ cup castor oil, 2 tablespoons liquid detergent, 6 tablespoons water. Add castor oil and detergent in a blender, whip until the mixture is like shaving cream. Add water and whip again. Take a regular garden sprinkling can, fill with warm water, add two tablespoons of the oil mixture and stir. Sprinkle immediately over the areas of greatest infestation. For best results apply after a rain or thorough watering.

Toxicants - Two poisons are federally registered for use against moles: strychnine and zinc phosphide. These are sold as a ready to use grain bait at local nurseries and garden supply stores. Since moles normally do not consume grain, poison grain baits are seldom effective.

Fumigants - Fumigants are also federally registered for use against moles. They are aluminum phosphide, calcium cyanide, and gas cartridges. Most of these are restricted use pesticides.

Traps - Trapping is the most successful and practical method of getting rid of moles. There are three excellent mole traps on the market. Any, if properly handled, will give good results. These traps depend on the same sort of mechanism for releasing the spring. A broad trigger snaps the trap as the mole upheaves the depressed portion of his surface burrow over which the trap is set. The brand name of these traps are: Out O' Sight, Victor mole trap and Nash (choker loop) mole trap.

Reduction of Food Supply - The use of insecticides to reduce insect larvae may eliminate enough of the moles' food supply-especially in sandy or light soilsso that they either starve to death or move elsewhere. The following insecticides are registered for insect and related invertebrate control in lawns: Diazinon, Oftanol, and Dursban. Caution: Keep pets and children off the lawn while damp when using chemical controls.

Catching Alive - Moles can be caught at work in the morning or evening in fresh burrowing operations. Approach very quietly where the earth is being heaved up. Suddenly strike a spade into the ridge behind the animal and throw it out on the surface. If no spade or other suitable tool is at hand, stamp theburrow down behind the mole with your foot and then stamp directly over the mole.

A mole occasionally can be driven to the surface by permitting a stream of water from a hose or ditch to run into an open burrow for some time. Another method is to bury a three pound coffee can or wide mouth quart glass jar in the path of the mole and cover the top of the burrow with a board.

Resources

Michigan State University Extension programs and materials are open to all without regard to race, color, national origin, sex, disability, age or religion. Michigan State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties cooperating. MSU is an affirmative-action equal opportunity institution.


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